Concettina Died and Other Stories of the East Side
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"Lucky Peach" posted February 26, 2005 at 09:38 PM

I just got back from a delicious, affordable, and warming Saturday night meal at Momofuku.

The East Village has really turned into Little Tokyo. Every day a new sushi place opens. But sushi--provided the fish is fresh--tastes pretty much the same at all of them. Momofuku takes a different Japanese specialty--ramen noodles--as its basis. They've created the most perfect noodle shop in the 'hood.

It's a tiny place with a long bar and high stools--no tables. The three cooks perform their culinary rituals right in front of you, carefully placing each square of nori into the bowls of noodles. Rock and roll makes it feel even more JApanese (to me anyway).

Funny enough, the two times I've been, I haven't eaten the ramen. Tonight I had kimchi stew--a spicy bowl of soup, braised kimchi, rice cakes, and shredded Berkshire pork. Savory and delicious, it's served with a side of rice. My server suggested a particular sake which was mild and smooth. It was perfect, and I left feeling warm, full, and only $25 poorer.

Momofuku means lucky peach.


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